top of page
Search

Best Chemicals for Termite Control: What Works, When to Use It, and How to Stay Safe

  • Writer: gloryann caloyon
    gloryann caloyon
  • 9 minutes ago
  • 8 min read

Home pest control

Termites can quietly eat their way through floor joists, subfloors, and trim—causing thousands of dollars in damage before you even realize they’re there. Chemical treatments remain one of the most effective tools for preventing and eliminating termite infestations when they’re selected and applied correctly. This guide breaks down the best termite control chemicals, when each one shines, how they work, and what homeowners in Southern California should know about safety and regulations.

Need help fast? Skip to the bottom for a quick CTA to book a termite inspection with Attack Pest Control or call 626-915-1111.

How Chemical Termite Control Works (In Plain English)

professional pest control


Chemical termite control targets termites at one or more points in their life cycle or travel routes. The right product and application method depend on where the colony is, how it’s accessing your home, and which termite species you’re dealing with (subterranean, drywood, or dampwood).

Pathways to Success

  • Soil barriers: Create a treated zone around the foundation so subterranean termites pick up a lethal dose as they tunnel.

  • Bait systems: Offer slow-acting growth regulators that termites share, collapsing the colony.

  • Wood treatments: Penetrate raw wood or finished lumber to kill and repel termites, or prevent future infestation.

  • Fumigation: De-gas an entire structure to eliminate widespread drywood colonies.

The Top Chemical Categories for Termite Control (and When to Use Each)

Man holding a machine for pestcontrol


1) Non-Repellent Liquid Termiticides (Soil Treatments)

Best for: Subterranean termites entering from the soil.

How they work: These products are virtually undetectable to termites. Workers pass through treated soil, pick up microscopic amounts on their bodies, and transfer it to other colony members (“transfer effect”). Over time, the colony collapses.

Common actives you’ll see on labels:

  • Fipronil (e.g., Termidor® family)

  • Imidacloprid (neonicotinoid class)

  • Chlorantraniliprole (reduced-risk profile in many contexts)

Pros

  • Highly effective with strong track records.

  • Transfer effect reaches hidden nestmates.

  • Typically long residual when applied by pros.

Considerations

  • Must be professionally trench-and-treated or injected to ensure continuous coverage.

  • Application quality matters as much as the product.

Learn more:

2) Repellent Liquid Termiticides (Soil Treatments)

Best for: Perimeter protection where non-repellents aren’t an option.

How they work: Pyrethroid actives (like bifenthrin or permethrin) repel or kill on contact. Termites sense the barrier and avoid it.

Pros

  • Can deliver quick knockdown.

  • Useful around specific features when carefully applied.

Considerations

  • Because colonies can “feel” the line, they may seek untreated gaps if coverage isn’t perfect.

  • Generally less favored than non-repellents for long-term, whole-home protection.

Learn more:

3) Bait Systems with IGRs (Insect Growth Regulators)

Best for: Subterranean termites where liquid treatments are impractical or when colony-wide elimination is the goal.

How they work: Baits use an IGR such as noviflumuron, diflubenzuron, or hexaflumuron. Termites feed on the bait and share it. The IGR disrupts molting, leading to colony decline.

Pros

  • Targets the colony itself.

  • Low active ingredient in the environment.

  • Excellent for sites where extensive trenching is difficult.

Considerations

  • Requires monitoring and maintenance.

  • Results can take weeks to months, depending on colony size and activity.

Learn more:

4) Borate Treatments (Wood Protectants)

Best for: New construction, remodels, and accessible raw wood; supplemental spot treatments.

How they work: Disodium octaborate tetrahydrate (DOT) penetrates unfinished wood. When termites ingest treated wood, it disrupts digestion and kills them.

Pros

  • Great for pre-treats and localized drywood activity in accessible areas.

  • Odorless and stable when properly applied and sealed.

Considerations

  • Works best on raw, unfinished wood (limited penetration on painted/varnished surfaces).

  • Not a whole-structure solution for large, established drywood infestations.

Learn more:

5) Whole-Structure Fumigants (Drywood Termites)

Best for: Widespread drywood termite infestations in inaccessible areas (e.g., attics, walls, trim across multiple rooms).

How they work: Sulfuryl fluoride (common fumigant) penetrates the structure as a gas, killing termites in all life stages. No residue remains after aeration.

Pros

  • Reaches hidden galleries throughout the structure.

  • Excellent for severe, multi-room drywood infestations.

Considerations

  • Requires tenting, vacating the property, and coordinating with licensed professionals.

  • No residual protection; follow-up prevention is essential.

Learn more:

Choosing the “Best” Chemical: Match the Tool to the Termite

There’s no one-size-fits-all solution. The best chemical depends on the species, location of the colony, construction type, and your tolerance for disruption.

Quick Selector

  • Subterranean termites entering from soil: Start with non-repellent liquid termiticide; consider baits as an alternative or complement.

  • Drywood termites scattered across rooms: Fumigation for whole-structure control; borate for accessible, localized wood.

  • Localized, accessible wood activity: Borate or limited non-repellent spot applications, depending on access.

Pro Tip

For many homes, a hybrid approach works best: non-repellent perimeter + strategic baits + borate on vulnerable wood.

Safety, Labels, and Regulations You Should Know

Even the “safest” pesticide can be dangerous if used improperly. Always follow the label—it’s the law—and rely on licensed professionals for structural treatments.

Why Labels Matter

  • Restricted-use products may only be applied by certified pros.

  • Labels specify mix rates, application methods, PPE, and re-entry intervals.

Trusted, Non-Commercial Resources

DIY vs. Professional Treatment: Where Each Makes Sense

Man with a blue shirt and mask doing pest control service


DIY Situations

  • Preventive borate on exposed, raw lumber during renovations.

  • Monitoring termite baits (when installed by a pro and maintained under a service plan).

Call a Pro Immediately

  • Active subterranean mud tubes on foundation or framing.

  • Evidence of widespread drywood termites (kick-out holes, pellets in multiple rooms).

  • Structural fumigation—this is strictly professional work.

Want a licensed pro to inspect your home? Book a termite inspection with Attack Pest Control.

What to Expect From a Professional Treatment Plan

1) Inspection and Species ID

A licensed technician identifies termite species, activity points, and conducive conditions (moisture, wood-to-soil contact).

2) Customized Strategy

  • Soil: Non-repellent perimeter application targeted to footers, slabs, and plumbing penetrations.

  • Bait: Stations installed at set intervals, with scheduled monitoring.

  • Wood: Borate applications to accessible framing or localized galleries.

  • Fumigation: Full prep and safety protocol when drywood is widespread.

3) Monitoring & Warranty

Professionals often include follow-ups and warranties. That’s crucial because termite pressure in Southern California can be year-round.

Chemical Spotlights: What’s Inside the Label (Without the Jargon)

Fipronil (Non-Repellent)

  • Mode of action: Targets the termite nervous system; transfer effect through social contact.

  • Use case: Gold standard for subterranean perimeter treatments.

  • Note: Requires precise, continuous barrier by a licensed applicator.

Imidacloprid (Non-Repellent, Neonicotinoid)

  • Mode of action: Binds to nicotinic acetylcholine receptors; slow-acting.

  • Use case: Soil treatments where fipronil isn’t selected.

Chlorantraniliprole (Anthranilic Diamide) (H3)

  • Mode of action: Disrupts muscle function via calcium channels.

  • Use case: Increasingly used due to favorable toxicological profile in many scenarios.

Noviflumuron / Diflubenzuron (IGR Baits)

  • Mode of action: Interfere with chitin synthesis; worker termites can’t molt.

  • Use case: Colony elimination with minimal active ingredient.

Disodium Octaborate Tetrahydrate (Borate)

  • Mode of action: Disrupts termite digestion of cellulose.

  • Use case: Wood protection and targeted drywood support.

Sulfuryl Fluoride (Fumigant)

  • Mode of action: Gas penetrates voids; lethal to termites at controlled concentrations.

  • Use case: Whole-structure drywood eradication by licensed fumigators.

Integrated Pest Management (IPM): Chemicals + Prevention = Lasting Results

Chemical tools are most effective when combined with building maintenance and exclusion.

Prevention Checklist

  • Eliminate wood-to-soil contact; keep mulch away from the foundation.

  • Maintain proper drainage; fix leaky spigots and downspouts.

  • Store firewood off the ground and away from the house.

  • Seal cracks and utility penetrations.

  • Schedule annual inspections, especially in termite-dense neighborhoods.

Sample Treatment Scenarios (So You Can See How Pros Decide)

Scenario A: Slab-on-Grade Home, Subterranean Termites

  • Plan: Non-repellent perimeter with trenching/rodding; bait stations as a supplemental layer.

  • Why: Ensures continuous soil coverage + long-term monitoring.

Scenario B: 1950s Home with Drywood Termites in Multiple Rooms

  • Plan: Whole-structure fumigation to wipe out hidden galleries; follow with borate spot-treatments during any remodels.

  • Why: Drywood colonies can be scattered and inaccessible.

Scenario C: Remodel with Open Framing

  • Plan: Borate pre-treat on exposed lumber, then seal/paint; future-proof with good ventilation and moisture control.

  • Why: Low-disruption, cost-effective prevention while walls are open.



People Also Ask: Clear Answers to Common Termite Chemical Questions

FAQs (Minimum of 7)

What chemical kills termites the fastest?

Answer: For subterranean termites, professional non-repellent liquids like fipronil deliver fast, reliable control because termites don’t detect them and spread the exposure within the colony. For widespread drywood infestations, sulfuryl fluoride fumigation eliminates colonies throughout the structure during a single, professionally managed event.

H3: Are termite bait systems as good as liquid treatments?

Answer: Yes—when maintained. Baits with IGRs are excellent at colony elimination, but they’re not instant. Liquids provide an immediate barrier; baits deliver sustained pressure that can wipe out the colony. Many pros combine both.

Is borate safe to use inside my home?

Answer: Borates are widely used on raw, accessible wood and are low-odor when applied correctly. They’re not for every situation (limited penetration into finished wood), but they’re effective as part of a prevention or spot-treatment plan. Always follow the label and rely on a licensed pro for structural decisions.

Do I need to tent my house?

Answer: Only if you have widespread drywood termites across inaccessible areas. Localized drywood or subterranean issues usually don’t require tenting; your technician will recommend the least disruptive option that still solves the problem.

How long do chemical treatments last?

Answer: Soil-applied non-repellents can protect for years when applied correctly; bait longevity depends on monitoring. Borate in sealed wood remains effective long-term. Fumigation is a one-time eradication with no residual—ongoing prevention is still needed.

Are these chemicals safe for pets and kids?

Answer: When applied per label by licensed professionals, modern termite products have strong safety profiles and are used with strict precautions (PPE, re-entry intervals, aeration for fumigants). See EPA’s termite control page for safety guidance: https://www.epa.gov/safepestcontrol/termites-how-identify-and-control-them.

What’s the most cost-effective approach?

Answer: The most cost-effective plan is the one matched to your exact situation. For many homes, a non-repellent perimeter plus targeted baits gives quick relief and long-term control, minimizing callbacks and repeated damage.

When Chemicals Aren’t Enough: Fix the Conditions Termites Love

Even the best chemistry struggles if moisture and access remain unchecked.

Rapid Fixes

  • Add downspout extenders; improve grade so water flows away from the foundation.

  • Replace moisture-damaged fascia and trim.

  • Add ventilation in crawl spaces and attics as needed.

  • Remove old stumps, scrap lumber, and cardboard from crawl spaces.

Internal Resources: Get Local, Licensed Help (Non-Competitor)

External Reputable Resources (Not Local Competitors)

Final Take: Pick the Right Chemistry, Then Lock in Prevention

  • Subterranean termites: Lead with non-repellent liquids, reinforce with baits.

  • Drywood termites: Fumigation for widespread infestations; borate for accessible areas.

  • Long-term success: Pair chemistry with moisture control, wood-to-soil fixes, and annual inspections.

If you’re unsure which route fits your home, that’s exactly what a professional inspection is for.

Call to Action

Ready to stop termites—for good?

Book a professional inspection with Attack Pest Control or call 626-915-1111.We’ll identify the species, map out activity, and design the least-disruptive, most effective plan to protect your home.

 
 
 

Comments

bottom of page